The Boston Imbiber

"Oh, it's a long, long while
From May to December.
And the days grow short
When you reach September."

Maxwell Anderson's sentimental lyrics in composer Kurt Weill's "September Song" tenderly reflect the bittersweet nature of this time of year (and this time of life). As the long, warm days of summer yield to the shorter, cooler days of fall, he knows our thoughts naturally--often wistfully--turn from summer fun to winter preparations. He's no intellectual slouch, either, as Mr. Anderson reveals his knowledge of the Autumnal Equinox that occurs in September (the 23rd) and the events that follow this major geo-solar turning-point. After the equinox--that time of year when the amount of daylight equals the amount of darkness--the days will indeed grow shorter and shorter until we arrive at the Winter Solstice on December 21. So now is the time for us to finish our summer projects, pause to reflect on and give thanks for the joys of summer, take a deep breath and then begin to gird-up for the cold winter that lies ahead.

First, let's focus on finishing our favorite summer project which, of course, is growing hops. September is the time to pick the hop cones, dry them, package the cones in an air-tight container and then store them in the refrigerator or freezer to preserve their freshness. Let's review these steps.

You have to feel, squeeze and sniff a hop cone to determine its ripeness and readiness for picking. If the cone feels cool and moist, it's not ready. A dry and papery feel is a sign of readiness. Now squeeze the hop cone. If it springs back after squeezing, it's probably ready. If it stays rather compressed, it's not ready yet. Next, tear off some of the cone petals (bracts) and squeeze the inside-ends where the golden-colored lupulin glands are. The resulting "resin" should be feel very sticky. If it seems a little thin or watery, the cones aren't ready. Now smell the squeezed resin. The aroma should be quite fragrant--lightly spicy or floral. If the aroma is very faint, the hops are not ready for picking. If you perform these tests once or twice a week, you will get a feel for the ripening process and know when the cones are ready for picking.

Once you've determined that your hops are ready, try to pick them on a nice, sunny day. If it's rained recently, wait a few days for the hops to dry back out. This will help to stack the odds against mould or mildew formation on the cones, especially if you air-dry your hops. Your picking technique will depend on how you've arranged your trellis. If your hops extend a long way up vertically, you may need to pick from a ladder. A safer alternative is to cut the vines about three feet above the ground and lower them down to a convenient horizontal level for easy picking. If they've grown up a pole, cut the lower bine and set the pole horizontally across two supports. If you can reach the hops from the ground or a small stool, you're all set to begin. You'll probably want to wear a long-sleeved shirt for picking because the vines' climbing hairs will tend to scratch your arms. Don't forget to mark the variety of the hops on the vessel you're putting the hops into and be sure to avoid getting them dirty or damaging their precious lupulin glands.

After picking, you need to dry out the hop cones. If you don't, they will get mouldy or musty and be useless for making beer (although you could still use them for compost). You could spread them out on a window-screen, bedsheet, or cheesecloth and air-dry them. If you use some other means involving heat (like a dehydrator), keep the heat below 130 degrees Fahrenheit to avoid driving-off the best aromatics. You should also keep the cones away from strong light, bugs, and dirt. The hop cones are dry when the little stem inside of them (the strig) snaps when you try to bend it. You can also test for dryness by weighing the hop cones before and after drying. They're generally dry when they've lost about 80% of their weight. The "active ingredient" in hops is lupulin. It is found at the base of the hop cone petals (bracts) inside tiny golden spheres called lupulin glands. They contain the resins and essential oils that give beer its bitterness, hop-flavor and aroma. These oils and resins are not very soluble in water. In fact, one reason why beer has to be "brewed" or boiled is to get the hop resins to go into solution.

Heat, light, and moisture will hasten oxidation of the lupulin, so the avoidance of these factors is what drives the storage method. Oxygen-barrier bags such as seal-a-meal bags, zip-lock freezer bags, or a mason jar or coffee can will suffice. Put the dried hops into the vessel (I usually weigh out one or two ounces per bag for ease in brewing), then try to squeeze out as much air as possible. Displace the remaining air with CO2 or nitrogen gas to retard oxidation (if available). Next, seal and label the vessel with the hop variety and then date and store it in the 'fridge or freezer.

When our hops are safely stored in the freezer, we can celebrate the harvest. Perhaps a homebrew party or Oktoberfest would be appropriate! Next comes the deep breath and then girding-up for winter (sigh). The vines should be cut a few inches above the soil level and taken down. Some craftspeople use them to make baskets or wreaths. Otherwise they should be composted or removed. If the lower few feet of the hop vines still have green nodes or buds, these vine sections can be cut and saved for propagating new plants. Pick a convenient spot in your yard, dig a trench about six inches deep (below the frost-line), place the cuttings in the trench and cover with soil. Cover the trench with mulch for insulation. You can then dig these rhizomes up next spring and use them to start new hop hills. Alternately, if your site is already prepared, you can plant the cuttings this fall exactly where you want the new hop plants to grow. (By the way, you may be able to sell or trade your extra rhizome cuttings.)

If you have been growing hops in pots, consider this: Hop plants don't like to be frozen to death! Although they can take brief chills down to about 28 degrees, a potted hop plant sitting out all winter is likely to experience prolonged freezing temperatures. This exposure could result in a dead or mostly-dead plant (and a cracked-pot, too!) In order to avoid this tragedy (and accusations that you are harboring crack-pots), you will need to protect your potted hops from extreme cold while they hibernate over the winter. Here are some alternatives. You could bury your pots in the ground below the frost-line and lightly cover them with mulch and soil. You could bring them into the basement or a root cellar for the winter. (If you bring them inside, water them occasionally so they don't dry out.) Or you could simply transplant your hops from the pots to the soil. If you have intended to plant them anyway, now is actually a good time to plant your hops. Their roots will grow every chance they get and thus your hops will be more developed by next spring.

After you've trimmed back your vines and healed-in the good lower cuttings, it's time to think about amending your soil. As a good steward, you must at least replace that which you have taken from the soil to grow your hops. You should also takes steps to minimize the stress on your hop plants during the cold seasons so they can emerge next spring in top form. Use of a soil test kit is an inexpensive means to determine your soil's major nutrient needs. You should amend the soil with phosphorus and potassium (eg bone meal and potash). These will help the plant get through the winter more comfortably (by improving vitamin uptake) and prepare the soil for the next growing season. Now that the hop is going dormant is also the best time to adjust the soil pH with lime (for acid soil) or sulfur (for alkaline soil). If you wait until spring, the pH-adjusting chemicals will interfere with the plant's uptake of nutrients for about a month afterward. A word of caution: Don't add any nitrogen to the soil at this time, as it will stimulate growth and cause carbohydrates stored in the roots to be wasted. This is also good time to add compost and humus to the soil to replace essential organic material and provide food for the beneficial microorganisms that dwell there. Finally, remember to cover the crowns of your hop plants with mulch for insulation against the cold.

I hope your summer went well this year and that you have a good harvest of hops. As the days grow shorter and the air turns cooler, please remember that to be a good steward for your hops you must replenish your soil and prepare your plants for the coming winter. Your efforts will be rewarded next spring with healthy and vigorous plants!

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